Acne 101 – What It Is and How It Starts
Acne forms when a pore (hair follicle) becomes clogged with oil (sebum), dead skin cells and sometimes bacteria. The pore swells, becomes inflamed, and shows up on the surface as a whitehead, blackhead or pimple.
Hormones, especially androgens, can increase oil production and make breakouts more likely. Genetics, certain medications and underlying conditions can also play a role.
Things that can make acne worse
- Using too many harsh products at once.
- Picking or squeezing spots (increases scarring risk).
- Skipping sunscreen while using strong actives.
- Heavy, pore-clogging makeup or skincare.
Things that usually do not cause acne
- “Dirty” skin (over-cleansing can be more harmful).
- One chocolate bar or one “bad” meal.
- Washing your face only once or twice a day.
- Basic moisturisers labelled non-comedogenic.
Types of Acne – Not All Breakouts Are the Same
Understanding what kind of spots you have helps you choose a more targeted treatment.
Non-inflammatory acne
Blackheads and whiteheads (comedones). Usually caused by clogged pores without much redness. Often respond well to salicylic acid and retinoids.
Inflammatory acne
Red, swollen pimples and papules. Bacteria and inflammation are more involved. Benzoyl peroxide and some topical antibiotics can help – under guidance.
Cystic/nodular acne
Deep, painful lumps under the skin. High risk of scarring. This usually requires prescription treatment and professional care.
If you suspect cystic acne or are already seeing scars, skip long DIY experiments and speak to a dermatologist sooner rather than later.
Key Acne Ingredients – What They Actually Do
Many acne products use the same handful of active ingredients. Knowing what each one does helps you avoid doubling up or irritating your skin.
Salicylic acid (BHA)
Oil-soluble acid that helps unclog pores and smooth texture. Great for blackheads and rough areas. Often used in cleansers or leave-on liquids.
Benzoyl peroxide
Targets acne-causing bacteria and inflammation. Very effective, but can be drying and may bleach fabrics. Often used as cleanser or leave-on gel.
Retinoids (like adapalene)
Vitamin A derivatives that normalise cell turnover and help prevent clogged pores. Often used long-term to keep acne under control.
Hydrating ingredients (like glycerin, ceramides and hyaluronic acid) are not “extras” – they are essential to keep your barrier intact while you treat acne.
How to Build a Beginner-Friendly Acne Routine
Most barrier damage comes from doing too much, too fast. A conservative approach usually works better than a full “acne kit” all at once.
- Cleanse: use a mild, non-stripping cleanser once or twice per day.
- Treat: apply one active product (BHA, BPO or adapalene) on dry skin.
- Moisturise: use a simple, non-comedogenic moisturiser.
- Protect: daily broad-spectrum SPF 30+ in the morning.
- Adjust: increase frequency slowly as your skin tolerates it.
Very reactive or nervous? Start with treatment every third night, or use a “sandwich method” (moisturiser → treatment → moisturiser again).
For specific product ideas and side-by-side comparisons, see AcneHeals.com – Independent product comparison .
When to See a Dermatologist
Some acne can be managed with over-the-counter products and a consistent routine. In other cases, medical treatment is the fastest and safest route.
Often manageable at home
- Mild to moderate breakouts with few deep spots.
- Blackheads and whiteheads without scarring.
- Acne that is slowly improving with OTC treatment.
Get professional help
- Deep, painful cysts or nodules.
- Visible scars or dark marks that keep appearing.
- Acne affecting your mental health or self-esteem.
This page is for general information only and is not medical advice. Always speak to your own doctor or dermatologist about severe, painful or long-lasting acne.
Want to go deeper?
When you are ready for more detail, explore these focused guides:
- Acne & diet – what the evidence actually says
- Hormonal acne – patterns, hormones and options
- Acne scars – prevention and treatment overview
These articles are educational only. They are not a substitute for a consultation with your own doctor or dermatologist.
Acne FAQ
Can I “dry out” my acne to make it go away faster?
Over-drying the skin almost always backfires. Your barrier becomes irritated and inflamed, which can trigger more breakouts. Aim for calm, slightly hydrated skin – not tight and stripped.
Does acne mean my skin is dirty?
No. Many people with acne have very good hygiene and sometimes wash too much. Acne is a medical skin condition, not a moral failing or a sign of being “unclean”.
Can I use makeup if I have acne?
Yes, if you choose non-comedogenic products and remove them gently at the end of the day. Heavy, fragranced or very occlusive formulas can make breakouts worse in some people.
Ready to choose products?
Acne.bio is designed to help you understand what is happening in your skin. When you feel more confident about the basics and want to compare real formulas, strengths and prices, head over to our independent comparison hub.
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